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Solved the problem with a little help from Maarten. Thanks.
Thanks for the reply. I did extrude the transom from all the planks and did the check model to get rid of the common edge.
I’ve had this odd problem with my computer where I put two attache two different views and it only attaches one. Don’t know why.
The hull is western red cedar. The strips were 1/4 inch thick. There is 6 oz. fiberglass cloth set in epoxy inside and out with an extra layer on the bottom (also inside and out). The inwales and outwales are Douglas Fir, as are the seats. Oarlock pads are oak set on cherry bases. The hull weighed 45 lbs. finished but the elaborate seats weigh 15 lbs. so the total weight is 60 lbs. It’s a real pleasure to row. Everyone who tries it comes back with a smile on their face. We laid out the station molds, set them up on a strong back and they were perfectly fair! No fairing required. There are two rowing stations so a person can sit on the aft seat and the rower can sit forward and the boat will trim (I calculated seat positions for my wife and myself). It’s pretty seaworthy. I haven’t towed it behind our sailboat yet but will in the next couple of weeks. It appeared in this month’s (May) Small Boats Monthly, the online magazine owned by WoodenBoat.
Hey, Jurgen, no criticism was meant! The boat looked great – really nice ends and perfect sheer line! I appreciate all the time you spent solving the problem of showing each clinker plank. I agree that such exercises are usually very instructive. My only point was, that if you want to build the boat, it isn’t necessary to go to all that trouble. If you want to see what it will really look like, however, you have solved the problem. I designed a little double ender myself, (8 feet) and a friend and I built it using the cedar strip composite method. Here are a couple of images.
Great looking design! I noticed that the plans Maryak posted show a much flatter bottom that the one you’ve drawn. That’s a lot of deadrise in a narrow boat on your drawing. Just an observation. I’ve drawn lots of boats for clinker construction but I only show the breaks where the planks would overlap, I don’t try to draw the 3D plank, if you know what I mean. That isn’t necessary for construction. The builder can overlap the planks. He only needs the inside of the plan to be shown. Making the planks 3D is only necessary for the visual satisfaction. Here’s a design of an 8 foot dinghy for clinker construction.Attachments:
Thanks for the reply. I’ve never used the mirror feature before. I click on the mirror icon and then get offered a list of the different layers with all the boxes checked. Do I uncheck the layers I don’t want mirrored? After that I got a another small window that offered different types of mirroring (horizontal, transverse, etc.). I’m very conversant with the program but have never used the mirror feature. Can you walk me through this? Many thanks.
Thanks for fixing that issue!
Has anyone tried the new full scale printing feature? Can we have some details on what you get and how it works?
I’m having the same issue and I have the same system – Windows 7, 64 bit. This makes the program effectively useless so I hope it can be remedied.
Thanks so much for doing that and sorry to take so long to reply. I was under the weather for a few days and couldn’t get to the copy shop. I had your effort printed out today and it appeared to be perhaps at 50% scale. Sorry to say, it didn’t seem to work. I really appreciate you doing this but it looks like I’ll just have to lay out the stations the old fashioned way. Not the end of the world. It would be nice if Delftship was set up so you could just print full size pdf drawings. It would make building small boats simpler.
We laid out some stations at the sheer line on an 8 foot piece of plywood and bent a batten around them yesterday. I had some concerns about how tight the curves were aft and they turned out to be too tight for a 1/4 by 3/4 batten, and the aft waterlines weren’t quite fair. I spent a day refining the lines and have bent battens around all the waterlines now and they are quite fair. Tomorrow we plan to lay out the stations. Thanks again.
Here’s the file. It’s a double-ender designed for kids – almost a toy. It’s only eight feet long but I broadened the water plane as much as I could to make it initially stable. A friend of mine saw the drawings and decided he wanted to build one. I’m trying to get full size station molds to make the setup quicker. This was inspired by Flo Mo’s Baby Boat.
I am selecting the paper size I want but getting a small image on the giant piece of paper.
I tried switching the design to metric – same result. Frustrating.
Thanks! I’ve had some trouble downloading Draft Site. I get an error message: error 1320 path too long…
I just sent an e-mail to them to see if they can help. I hope this will work.
I will be interested in the answers as I am dealing with the same issue. It has occurred to me that one could move the entire hull away from the centre line by one half the width of the portioin of the stem you wish to have exposed. So if you wanted a flat surface on the stem (so you could add a false stem to cover the plank ends) of one half inch you would move the hull away from the centre line by one quarter of an inch. Your hull would be somewhat wider and you would have to make allowances for this but it should work.
Okay, never mind. I’m new to the program and I figured it out. Different from the program I was using.
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